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Borobudur is
one of the most impressive monuments ever created by man. It
is both a temple and a complete exposition of doctrine,
designed as a whole, and completed as it was designed, with
only one major afterthought. It seems to have provided a
pattern for Hindu temple mountains at Angkor (see above
Cambodia and Vietnam), and in its own day it must have been
one of the wonders of the Asian world. Built about 800, it
probably fell into neglect by about 1000 and was overgrown. It
was excavated and restored by the Dutch between 1907 and 1911.

The
Borobudur Temple
( CLICK IMAGE to enlarge to full page )
It now
appears as a large, square
plinth (the processional path) upon which stand five terraces
gradually diminishing in size. The plans of the squares are
stepped out twice to a central projection. Above the fifth
terrace stands a series of three diminishing circular terraces
carrying small stupas, crowned at the centre of the summit by
a large, circular, bell-shaped stupa. Running up the centre of
each face is a long staircase; all
four are given equal importance.

There are no internal cell
shrines, and the terraces are solid; Borobudur is thus a
Buddhist stupa in the Indian sense. Each of the square
terraces is enclosed in a high wall with pavilions and niches
along the whole perimeter, which prevents the visitor on one
level from seeing into any of the other levels. All of these
terraces are lined with relief sculptures, and the niches
contain Buddha figures. The top three circular terraces are
open and unwalled, and the 72 lesser, bell-shaped stupas they
support are of open stone latticework; inside each was a huge
stone Buddha figure. The convex contour of the whole monument
is steepest near the ground, flattening as it reaches the
summit. The bottom plinth, the processional path, was the
major

afterthought.
It consists of a massive heap of stone pressed up against the
original bottom story of the designed structure, so that it
obscures an entire series of reliefs--a few of which have been
uncovered in modern times. It was probably added to hold
together the bottom story, which began to spread under the
pressure of the immense weight of earth and stone accumulated
above.
The whole building symbolizes a Buddhist transition from the
lowest manifestations of reality at the base, through a series
of regions representing psychological states, toward the
ultimate condition of spiritual enlightenment at the summit.
The unity of the monument effectively proclaims the unity of
the cosmos permeated by the light of truth. The visitor was
meant to be transformed as he climbed through the levels of
Borobudur, encountering illustrations of progressively more
profound doctrines the nearer he came to the summit. The
topmost terrace, whose main stupa contained an unfinished
image of Buddha that was hidden from the spectator's view,
symbolized the indefinable ultimate spiritual state. The 72
openwork stupas on the circular terraces, with their barely
visible internal Buddhas, symbolize incomplete states of
enlightenment on the borders of manifestation. The usual way
for a pilgrim to pay reverence to a Buddhist stupa is to walk
around it, keeping it on his right hand. The vast series of
reliefs about three feet (one metre) high on the exterior
walls of the terraces would thus be read by the visitor in
series from right to left. Between the reliefs are decorative
scroll panels, and a hundred monster-head waterspouts carry
off the tropical rainwater. The gates on the stairways between
terraces are of the standard Indonesian type, with the face of
the Kala monster at the apex, vomiting his scrolls.
The reliefs of the lowest level illustrate scenes that show
the causal workings of good and bad deeds through successive
reincarnations. They show, for example, how those who hunt,
kill, and cook living creatures such as tortoises and fish are
themselves cooked in hells or die as children in their next
life. They show how foolish people waste their time at
entertainments. From these scenes of everyday life, one moves
to the terraces above, where the subject matter becomes more
profound and metaphysical. It illustrates important Mahayana
texts dealing with the self-discovery and education of the
bodhisattva, conceived as being possessed by compassion for
and devoted wholly to the salvation of all creatures. The
reliefs on the uppermost terraces gradually become more
static. The sensuous roundness of the forms of the figures is
not abated; but, in the design, great emphasis is laid upon
horizontals and verticals and upon static, formal enclosures
of repeated figures and gestures. At the summit all movement
disappears, and the design is entirely subordinated to the
circle enclosing the stupa.
The iconography of Borobudur suggests that the legend of the
royal bodhisattva recounted in many of the reliefs was meant
to "authenticate" some king or dynasty. Yet it
hardly seems possible that Borobudur was the focus of a
specific royal cult, as there is no provision at all for the
performance of royal ritual. It must have been, then, in some
sense a monument for the whole people, the focus for their
religion and life, and a perpetual reminder of the doctrines
of their religion.
A considerable number of bronzes, some small, some large, have
been found in Indonesia in a style close to that of the
sculptures of Borobudur and Mendut. One fine, large standing
image comes from Kotabangun in Borneo; but some come from
Java. Many small cult images of the Buddha and Buddhist
deities exist. Some are close in type to the early Pala images
of Indian Bihar, the homeland of Buddhism, with which the
Javanese must have maintained close touch. A few small but
extremely fine gold figurines of undoubted Javanese
workmanship have also turned up. For all their small size they
must rate as first-class works of art. As well as images there
are many beautiful bronze ceremonial objects, such as lamps,
trays, and bells. These objects are decorated with the same
kinds of ornament, although on a miniature scale, as the
architectural monuments: scrolled leaves, swags, and bands of
jewels.
Post-Borobudur tjandis
Post-Borobudur tjandis illustrate the Buddhist doctrine in
different ways. Kalasan, for example, built in the second half
of the 8th century, was a large, square shrine on a plinth,
with projecting porticoes at the centre of each face. The roof
was surmounted by a high circular stupa mounted on an
octagonal drum, the faces of which bear reliefs of divinities.
Topping each portico was a group of five small stupas, and
another large stupa stood at each disengaged corner of the
main shrine. The moldings were restrained and elegantly
profiled. Each section of the exterior wall contains a niche
meant for a figure sculpture. The decorative scroll carving is
especially fine.
Another shrine from this period, Tjandi Sewu, consisted of a
large cruciform shrine surrounded by smaller temples, only one
of which has been restored. All of the temples seem to have
had roofs in the form of tiered stupas, compressing the
overall Borobudur scheme into the scope of a storied shrine
tower. From Tjandi Plaosan came many beautiful sculptures,
donor figures, and iconic images of bodhisattvas.
Perhaps the most interesting of the post-Borobudur Buddhist
shrines of the 9th century is Tjandi Sari. It is an
outstanding architectural invention. From the outside it
appears as a large, rectangular, three-storied block, with the
main entrance piercing the centre of one of the longer sides.
The third story stands above a substantial architrave with
horizontal moldings and antefixes. Two windows on each short
side, three on each long, open into each story, though at the
rear they are blind. The windows are crowned by large
antefix-like cartouches of ornamental carving based on
curvilinear pavilions hung with strings of gems. The uppermost
windows are hooded with the Kala-monster motif. The roof bears
rows of small stupas, and perhaps there was once a large
central stupa. Inside, Tjandi Sari contains a processional
corridor around three interior shrines that were possibly
intended for images of the garbha-dhatu deities, as at Tjandi
Mendut.
The last great monument of the central Javanese period, Lara
Jonggrang at Prambanan, is indeed a colossal work, rivalling
Borobudur. It was probably built soon after 900. Not Buddhist
but Hindu, the shrine represents the cosmic mountain. There
were originally 232 temples incorporated into the design. The
plan was centred on a square court with four gates containing
the eight principal temples. Facing east, the central and
largest temple, some 120 feet (40 metres) high, was devoted to
the image of Siva. To the north and south it is flanked by
slightly smaller temples devoted to the two other members of
the Hindu trinity, Vishnu and Brahma. The smaller shrines
contained many subsidiary images. The whole complex was
enclosed, far off-centre, in an extremely large walled
courtyard.
Although these are Hindu buildings, their high-terraced shrine
roofs bear tiers of elongated and gadrooned stupas. The
reliefs on these structures are especially beautiful. One
series, representing the guardians of the directions,
integrates the ornamental motifs with the plastic forms of the
bodies in a most original way. The balustrades and inset
panels abound with lively reliefs portraying various deities
or scenes taken from the great Hindu classics, especially the
Ramayana.
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Borobudur
belongs to the history of the period stretching across
the 8th and 9th centuries, a time when Europe saw the
blossoming of the Frankish Carolingian rule, namely
the legitimization of Charles's rule over the former
Roman empire in Western Europe (finalizing the split
with the Byzantine empire), and that empire's
subsequent dismemberment in the hands of his heirs. It
was a period when the great deeds of Roland
("Chanson de Roland") were lauded. A time
heading towards the gradual rise of the German
Ottonian dynasty (936-1002). Important developments
were taking place further south as well: the advent of
Islamization. In Sicily, the famous mosques were being
built which later, in Norman times, would be
transformed into churches (such as the Church of St.
John of the Hermits in Palermo). Islamization
proceeded to take place across the Mediterranean
region, notably in Egypt. In short, Borobudur fits in
chronologically with the Cairo mosque Ibn Touloun,
with the Palatine chapel built by Charlemagne at
Aix-la-Chapelle, and with the first Ottonian
constructions in Italy (namely the famous S. Italy
Apulia region châteaux).
In the East, India was witnessing the first signs of
decline of the rival Pallava and Chalukya dynasties.
Thus Borobudur coincides with Mahabalipuram where,
under the patronage of the Pallava dynasty, numerous
temples were carved, and with the Mallikarjuna Temple
of Pattadakal erected by the Chalukya kings.
Meanwhile, China's T'ang dynasty was coming to its
end: Borobudur dates from when the T'ang Empress Wu
Zetian had the Pagoda of the Wild Goose built at Xian,
the T'ang dynasty's western capital.
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The
Sailendra dynasty is said to hark back indirectly to
India by being cousins to the Chandella dynasty, which
left numerous monuments in India between the 7th and 8th
centuries (most notably, the Khajuraho temples).
Allegedly, a schism in the family occurred between those
remaining faithful to Hinduism - the Chandella dynasty,
which stayed in Khajuraho - and the Sailendra branch
which, having converted to Buddhism, set off for
Indonesia as early as the 4th century.
The Sailendra dynasty reached its zenith in Indonesia
during the 7th, 8th, and 9th centuries. Their king was
considered the founder of Borobudur; he bore the name
Indra (Hindu god represented on an elephant - god of
rain, monsoons, storms and winds). The fact that the
founder of this most fabulous Buddhist shrine bore a
Hindu name shows the ambiguity of the Sailendra
dynasty's position between Buddhism and Hinduism. The
shrine was actually signed or co-signed by Indra's son,
King Samaragunta (also spelled Samaratunga). The latter
turned the com pleted monument over to the Buddhist
monks, who enjoyed royal sponsorship. Just as in
classical India, in Java the dynasties generally
continued Hindu names and beliefs. At the same time,
they opened their minds to Buddhist doctrines, effecting
a sort of unofficial conversion, which they concretized
in the form of a gift of land, money or even pensions to
the Buddhist monks who, in return, affected a tolerant
and protecting attitude towards the royalty.
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It is a
classic Buddhist ritual for pilgrims to carry out the
stages of a visit by turning clockwise and gradually up
wards around a stupa, until reaching the smallest round,
which is that of the unity at the top. This method was
already described in pre-Vedic texts prior to 2700 BC;
in India,
this is called - by Hindus as well as Jains and Bud
dhists - "pradaksina". The idea is to walk
around the divine in order to awaken the divine, meaning
to bring a statue to life and thus exalt its power,
while at the same time apprehending all aspects of its
divinity. In India, as through out Southeast Asia, the
clockwise direction allows you to keep your right hand
physically in contact with the naos (shrine). The
Buddhist implications at Borobudur are so very
sophisticated and complex that it takes a whole series
of zones of varying awareness to reach the unity at its
summit.
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Have a look at this
engraving. Its story begins with the discovery of the
grandeur of Borobudur by, interestingly enough, an
Englishman, as early as in 1815 (when Java was under
British colonial rule): Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles. In
London in 1817, Raffles published the first engravings
showing the site and the first bas-reliefs which were
extremely comical (and which, unfortunately, have never
been reproduced elsewhere). The engraver, a Brit on of
London, had never visited the monument; dissatisfied
with Raffles' draftsmanship, he transformed his work
into Greek Neoclassic versions, which brings us to our
present image: it could be mistaken for the altar of
Perga mum!

No major
restoration was undertaken until the end of the 19th
century: the first was instigated by a specialist from
Leyden (since Java was by then under Dutch colonial
rule), Dr. C. Leemans. Due to limited financial
resources, Leemans saw to the most urgent needs, and if
the monument was able to be rescued a century later, it
is in large part thanks to Leeman's initiative. The
first truly large-scale restoration was carried out
between 1907 and 1911 by a Dutch second lieutenant and
engineer, Theodoor van Erp. However, none of these
specialists encountered the problem of pollution and
stone rot plaguing the monument more recently. A
comparison between a photo taken of Borobudur in 1910
and one in 1960 shows the extent to which the stones
were spotted and eroded and how far its earthen core had
sunk.
A first
restoration with the support of UNESCO was accomplished
in 1948. In the sixties, an appeal from Indo nesia was
answered by international support on behalf of
restoration efforts carried out jointly by the
Indonesian government and UNESCO. The results of this
project, lasting from 1971 to 1984, are what you now
see.
Another
minor restoration was necessary after a bomb attack to
the summit of Borobudur damaged several of the
stone-latticework-surrounded stupas, alas proving that
this magnificent shrine is no safer from harm than any
of the other jewels constituting the cultural heritage
of mankind.
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